Saturday, May 26, 2012

Setting the Bar

The highest form of cooking is inventing new techniques.

Of course, everything we do is in some way indebted to the past, but on rare occasions (very rare - most chefs never experience it) you stumble across something that has never been done before.

In the case we're dealing with, it's one of the most well researched food items possible. A thing you'd think was far past innovation.

And yet...






That is an egg 63º, cracked and separated from the white, which has been caramelized with a blow torch. The center remains gooey and custard-like with a thin layer of... omelette(?) around it. The outside is blistered and crispy. The micro green salad is dressed with a champagne hazelnut vin, salt and pepper.

It's good.

Really good.

I'm kind of hoping this has been done before somewhere; but I can't find any mention of it online - and have never come across it in my research. If it hasn't, it's kind of a big deal. Most chefs will never experience this level of creation and, if indeed new, this'll carry expectations of doing it again.

Brother, you're gonna' carry that weight.

Sunday, April 15, 2012

A week of fuckery

Caramel coated olives

Parsnip pudding - parsnip / sour beer / cream / sugar

Orange ashes - 1 dehydrated at full power / 2 cooked to charcoal / powdered

Lamb Salad - Powdered lamb fat / rose - champagne vin foam / black pepper / micro greens

Black Pear - peeled and torched Anjou pear. 

Smoked honey

Smoked RC Cola / Spiced rum / lime bitters

Frozen chocolate whip cream

For all of our hype as serving weird food, our flavors are very simple. It's in transformation and texture that we challenge.

Monday, March 26, 2012

glass

I'm obsessed with foods that look like something else.

Obsessed.

Any opportunity to do this I jump on. The other day Joey was making the sherry caramel and it boiled over. The sugar syrup collected on the tinfoil we line everything with and once it cooled it looked like a sheet of brown glass. We hit it and then it looked like a broken beer bottle. This made my brain short circuit. I can serve broken glass to people!!!! Thus happened the dish "glass." It's burnt caramel shards with smoked salt and orange segments. I tested it out on a few tables over the weekend to great success. Everyone smiled when it was put in front of them and looked up at me with a "really??" face.

The spring line has... 3 dishes that are like this. They look like something they are not, or are otherwise transformed strangely.

Super cool stuff and, as always, affordable. Glass is $4.

Thursday, March 22, 2012

In Defense of Anger and Hate

Another "Southern With a Twist!" place opened downtown.

Serving the same $28 pork chop as every other restaurant in their zip-code. Welcome to commodified, pre-packaged, "new south" food. Same restaurant, different name.

Look you fucking jerks, "New" South ain't so new anymore. Now it's "Also-Ran South" and "Me-Too South". If you don't have something new to bring to the table then don't open a place and put a dish in front of me. And what balls you have! Charging The People $40 a cover for soul-food on fancy plates. I know I just don't feel like a meal is complete unless my overpriced wine rides in Riedel glassware. "House-made Blue cheese dressing." It sure as shit better be! Why would you feel the need to even bring that up unless you're trying to compensate for something?

I often hear the counterargument that there's room for both casual and fine dining. I reject this. First, it's only ever brought to the table by the owners of fine dining places trying to defend their costs and shitty attitudes about attire. If, as it should be, it's first about the food, and last about the environs, then serve me your food on less expensive plates and charge me a reasonable amount for it. We're doing a 4 course dinner here on the 31st for $25 - and we'll make money. Don't let these motherfuckers talk to you about labor and food cost. The labor is so high because they don't do anything themselves. How often are owners working the line at these joints? They're not. They're having cocktails with that woman from the paper telling them how great they are.

Look, every chef becomes a chef because they have a pathological need for praise. It's just like stand-up comics and actors. We need to be told we're good enough. Something in our brains isn't tuned up right. It's never all about "passion" (don't even get me started on that excuse for acting like an asshole) from a psych standpoint. But when the media gets involved you're on another planet. They're paid to jerk you off. They didn't show up to talk bad about you. Treat them like every other customer. Let them pay like every other customer. You know who gets a little something extra at The Owl? Line cooks and servers. The walked-on and beaten-down amongst my profession. I'll give them a little shoulder rub and an It'll be alright with a free app. They deserve it sometimes.

People keep asking why our food is so cheap. Because we don't have any fat. You're not paying for salaries and houses of people that don't work in the restaurant. Why is their food so expensive? Because it's inflated and bloated by location and surroundings.

It's class discrimination. Plain and simple. The people deserve well thought out, creative food just as much as the BMW Class. And while we don't mind dining at the same place as them, they sure as shit don't like someone in work boots near them while they dine on fish that's almost extinct.

So, yeah, Fuck Fine Dining.

Sunday, March 18, 2012

No News is No News.

This closes out the third week of The Owl. We're changing the entire menu after March 31st. Expect a massive update after The Death of Fake Winter about our first month as a restaurant.

Friday, February 3, 2012

Creativity in Archive Form: Fig. 1

These are just some dishes I've been creating in my head tonight:

duck
mirepoix elements

blood sausage
sauerkraut / mustard / beet

carrot
egg / pumpernickel / butter

pork belly
spatzle / beer gel / mustard seed

rabbit
elements of stew

chop
red eye / gastrique / asparagus / potato

sirloin
pumpernickel / cider / asparagus

"carrot cake"
pumpernickel / walnut / spice créme / sherry gastrique

trout
horseradish / carrot / parsley / roe

salad
"soil" / carrot / radish / beet / sesame vin

butternut
sherry / butter / pork jus

I do this once or twice a week - just purge all my food thoughts. Some of it will likely end up on the menu; some of it will likely end up in the trash forever.